WOW !! Thanks blogadda:) |
Victoria Falls---Zimbabweans call it " Smoke That Thunders"---Picture taken in 1994! |
It's amazing, that even after so many years, my heart still skips a beat as I write about Zimbabwe--- a country where we spent best five years of our lives. The wide Jacaranda-lined streets, tsetse flies, bilharzia sign-boards around the stagnant pools... all these suddenly rush through my memory as I write this. For us, this was truly a journey into a world where we met, tied happy alliances with some wonderful people regardless of race, religion and skin color.
The nation came into being in 1980. Black population voted for the first time and chose Robert Mugabe. Like other new black countries, it also had corrupt ruling elite… Mugabe’s army terrorized the area, decimated villages, and mercilessly burnt down the beautiful country within a couple of decades. In 1994, we could clearly see the country going downhill…! Racial
slurs against whites reached the highest political level, and started showing a gross level of intolerance across the
country. The newspapers were full of disgusting reports of crime, murder, recession, economic and political bickering. The entrenched bitterness in the minds of many whites was also clearly visible.
Thankfully, my husband’s contract was coming to an end, so we decided to head to Victoria Falls to bid final good-bye to the world's largest sheet of falling water, which is a memorable sight on any African safari . Victoria Falls was about 6-7 hrs drive from Bulawayo. We set out by 6 am in the morning. Those days the roads were excellent. There were no potholes, the lanes were neatly painted, and the street signs were all clearly marked. Just short of Vic Falls, we stopped along the banks of Zambezi River. We didn't see much wildlife, but we heard hippos calling to each other from Livingston Island…I yearned for adventure.
Jacaranda trees were enormous; though it was not the
blooming time, but we saw red amaryllis blooming everywhere without care. I got
out of the car and took a few steps ahead and saw a row of mud-houses on the
left. It was an African
village…!! I started walking on the gravel road braving the dirt, flies and biltongs (buffalo innards) hanging like curtains at the entrance of every compound, and the air was rife with raw blood and the thrum of flies...these had first made me shrink and half turn away. The sky was strafed with hungry pigeons and birds as Zimbabwe was going through severe drought. Lines of guinea fowl came chuckling along, and suddenly tossed past the road in a frantic, fluttery arc.
I spotted a Kiosk built of concrete bricks, with iron bars on
the window in a corner; a kind that one gets to see everywhere in
Matabeleland. A home-made sign was nailed into a big Baobab tree: "SHAKE- SHAKE*,
ALL BRAND CIGARETTES, COOL DRINKS AVAILABLE…" I thought of buying a few ice-lollies and chips for the hungry kids who had lined up around me. Maybe, I was looking like an alien in my six yards...But, suddenly I was stopped by a tall black youth... He clapped*** and made an obeisance. I was slightly frightened now...
He asked: ‘Are you going to Victoria Falls, Ma'mma? Can I get a lift to the next village?’
‘Oh yes, certainly’, I said in my exaggeratedly interested,
conversational manner.
We walked back to the car. My husband was a little irked but, he opened the door for him. The young man bent and entered
the car and sat beside my eight year daughter. The car kept lurching on the
road--my curiosity was completely focused on this black youth who was travelling with us... He was extraordinarily quiet. I turned back to check once and found him peacefully sleeping with his hands limp between his long and
thin knees. His denim jacket was lying by his side; my daughter fingered it surreptitiously and made a face, and said,' It's stinking..'
I tried to ignore her, but soon she came crawling
into the front seat, tugging at my chest whispered,’ Ma, if he kills
us—what shall we do?’
I smiled and whispered: ‘Nothing will happen to us,
sweetheart. There are so many people on the road. Every African cannot be bad....’, I said, very precisely…and opened the window hoping to catch
sight of something interesting that was lurking in the line of vision….
The car sped past, but had to slow down after sometime as the road was progressively
getting crowded and narrower. I thought we were reaching his village. Rows of
ramshackle structures, some built on low stilts, with walls of mud, and the
roofs made of corrugated sheets gave us a feeling of an African settlement…
Turning back at him I asked: "Do you stay here?” My voice woke him up, he looked around, licked his lips and said:’
…no, to the next village, please’.
My mental patience was slowly weakening...and this time he spoke softly...
“…..You
look Indian, do you own a shop here?" (There was a big Gujarati business community in Zimbabwe, who
owned many Indian outlets in almost all the big towns of the country.) I said no, and told him that we were expatriates and were all set to leave the country
shortly.
"No one can help me now , Ma'mma. I've lost my job this
week, he said, spacing the words out, speaking annoyingly.... I've got my
recommendation-certificate, but, who is going to keep me now? People are all migrating.... they are taking away our jobs with them."
I was shocked.... I was unable to explain anything to him. Reality came crashing down like the shutter of a trap. I held on to the metal armrest of the seat. My daughter leaned back and told us that the man was crying. I turned around and saw angry tears sparkling in those yellow eyes.This was a case of
hopeless sobbing, I thought...
I was troubled with remorse and shame. But suddenly he gave out a huge laugh, and said ." Yes, of course, you said, you guys are going back to your country. Why don't you stay here? You could give us some jobs...seeing the jobs disappearing is disappointing. Any job you give us, we'll do for you ....". Now the fellow was ranting in a detached manner....
I was troubled with remorse and shame. But suddenly he gave out a huge laugh, and said ." Yes, of course, you said, you guys are going back to your country. Why don't you stay here? You could give us some jobs...seeing the jobs disappearing is disappointing. Any job you give us, we'll do for you ....". Now the fellow was ranting in a detached manner....
The
wind was too hard for my ears, so I covered my head and part of my face with
the edge of my sari and kept looking out of the window. The whole country was seething in anger and discontent. My husband
decided to change our route a bit.
He steered to the left and asked Goodwill," How far is your village from here? I want to stop at this motel for a while..."
He steered to the left and asked Goodwill," How far is your village from here? I want to stop at this motel for a while..."
" Just a few more minutes from here Bass ( Boss..), I think I can walk.." he said bitterly.
Next moment he was out of the car. Parting at the door, and like a typical Brit he said sharply," Ta... I shall never probably see you again....Ta...**Lisale Kuhle'..." and went off into the long grass by the side of the road, clutching his little jacket in his hand.
We watched his head bob over the tall grassland for sometime, and then slowly the figure
vanished....
* shake shake--- is local cheap beer.
**Lisale Kuhle--- good bye/ take care.
*** Clapping hands twice is a polite tradition, it shows reverence.
Am sharing some more pictures from our album....
* shake shake--- is local cheap beer.
**Lisale Kuhle--- good bye/ take care.
*** Clapping hands twice is a polite tradition, it shows reverence.
Am sharing some more pictures from our album....
Victoria Falls |
My angel walking through the rain forest.... |
A bridge that links Zimbabwe and Zambia.... |
Famous Baobab Trees
This post is a part of Write Over the Weekend, an initiative for Indian Bloggers by BlogAdda
Pictures were not taken with digital cameras, as we didn't have one. The above pics have been scanned and converted to digital images for uploading. As a result, the quality is compromised... |
Wow this was a mystic piece Mam straight from the lovely memories. Thanks for sharing all the pictures & moments, remembering which your heart still blossoms. :) Take care!
ReplyDeleteTanya! I am on cloud nine....do you know the peril you are putting me into...??:P
DeleteThanks a bunch :))xoxo
You ROCKKK Ma'am It's such a delight to come & read all your articles :) Take care, sweetheart :)
Delete:)))) muaaah....
DeleteWelcome Panchali!
ReplyDeleteWonderful post. I've never been, and probably would not be in Zimbabwe.
I love watching the wonders of nature which include waterfalls.
Panchali, great pictures.
I send greetings.
Lucia
Lucia...Victoria falls is worth taking a look. I heard tourists are slowly going back to see falls and entering through Zambia. Do visit, if you get an opportunity.
DeleteThanks for your greetings. I reciprocate the same to you :)
Will be in your space soon...
More than the place, it is the moment that create memories! Zimbabwe is still neck deep in political and economic crisis. Hope, this country, beautifully endowed with nature's bounty is able to sail through its problems. as always, wonderful post. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely Meenakshi...we still have loads and loads of wonderful memories of that place. Actually things were so different when we were living there....Things started nosediving only from the beginning of nineties. It was honestly sad to see such a beautiful country going through economic, political and natural devastation.
DeleteThanks for your encouragement, means a lot to me :) xoxo
Whew, what an experience you had. I read it with my heart thumping. I wonder whatever became of the young man. Beautiful pictures you shared. Missing you over at Poets United Poetry Pantry!
ReplyDeleteMary, Thanks for stepping in with that encouraging comment...Sadly, a host of issues contributed to the economic and financial breakdown of the African countries. And Zim was no different. I really don't know what happened to Goodwill...we didn't have mobiles those days, else would have surely taken down his contact number. Even today, I think of that young chap.
DeleteAnd yes,even I am missing Poet's United forum. Have not been writing poetry for sometime--maybe suffering a 'block'. But, I have linked up my last poem now after reading your comment. Thanks for the PUSH..:-D :D
xoxo
What an encounter....!
ReplyDeletethe first picture is awesome... I salute your clicking skill...
wish you could show us more pix of Zimbabwe... can't you?
Regards,
Anunoy Samanta
-------------------------------
http://just4suzan.blogspot.com
http://imakemytrip.blogspot.com
Anunoy !! Good to know that you liked my 'clicking skill'---You had the courage to say it all. hee heee...A big thank you :)))))
DeleteAnd now since you've requested, shall certainly post some more pics soon. But, it's going to take sometime, because I have to convert them into digital images first !! Quite a tedious job for me!!:((
Stay tuned....
WOW .. what a travelog !!
ReplyDeleteCheck out mine..
http://ankitmahato.blogspot.in/2012/11/strolling-down-memory-lane.html
Thanks a lot, Ankit.. you made my week... :)))))
DeleteNice travelogue and beautiful pictures :) But I am disturbed by the words of that African guy who travelled in your car... Africa is once called "The Dark Continent" and even now it is. People suffer a lot in that continent. The racism prevails to the core everywhere around that continent. There are very few who actually try to help them out. Epidemic diseases, robbery, famine all exist in that remorseful continent. Hope God saves them all.
ReplyDeleteHarikrishna...Very unfortunate predicament. In a way, the black rule in many African countries had cancerous consequences mainly because of lack of unity of tribes and virtual absence of knowledge in governance....One doesn't know what one should pray for...!!
DeleteThanks so much for that poignant comment.
The pics look amazing .... Zimbabwe is always in the news due to its political problems, but you managed to bring out the brighter side of this place !!!
ReplyDeleteSpeck, I am always amazed at your perceptiveness, clarity of thought and immaculate reading power... Thank God, you read the brighter part too!:))
DeleteThank you for the visit and being such a fabulous reader..!!!
Panchali mam,
ReplyDeleteFirstly thank you so much for visiting my blog any appreciating my post I Love you Maa , your words matter a-lot, am desperately waiting for your next visit :)
Your made me breathless once again, this is another marvel of your thought palace, thank you so much for sharing your the beautiful experience, no place is free from problem, may God give them courage stand by the situations and fight for the betterment... Loved the pics :)
-Aayu :)
Aayu..!!
DeleteIt was wonderful reading you. I look forward to reading you more, my dear♥. Just waiting for the alert now...:)))
I am happy you could relate to this... thank you for your words of encouragement..I am impressed with myself...:))
Thanks re..
It was a nice travelogue...but what i liked the most is that even being a travelogue it contained the emotions which were nicely portrayed...liked it a lot...!!!
ReplyDeleteImages of Victoria falls and the journey within are super :)
Anjan...So good to have you here!! You gave me my much needed dose of appreciation... :)))))Thanks for that super duper comments and for making my day... :))
DeleteYou took my breath away Panchaliji with that first pic...I was just sitting and staring at it for a long time...I just did not want to scroll down as I feared the reverie would break.It was so magical!
ReplyDeleteAnd once I scrolled down...the post was mesmerizing... I don't know if I will ever visit Zimbabwe or not but your post gave me wonderful virtual tour which is unforgettable :)
ME!!!I am so glad that the pic held your interest!! Thank you so much for stepping in with your valuable comment...
DeleteI have lived in Zimbabwe and have seen the realities clearly.If,ever you get a chance, do viist the country. You'll never regret. :))
Thanks re...xoxo
Beautiful description of a place unknown to me. You made it exotic and magical
ReplyDeletelike only a true writer can. I must say, you were brave to have offered him lift.
I can well imagine Dada's disgust like I would have been if i were in his place :p
Hugzzz ghaz... But, I know you and dada are so much alike (mentally). But, with good Samaritans things are always different :P
DeleteBut, you sure know how to make me very happy...:))) Thanks a zillion....
I love your memoirs. They always open a new door for me. As for the pictures, the quality is not compromised, instead they have attained the charm of a classic :)
ReplyDeleteThank you, Purnendu for your wonderful words of encouragement...am thrilled :))
DeleteYou were missed... where have you been...? Glad to have you back again...
Thanks a zillion..:))
That must have been quite an experience for you and your family. Living in Zimbabwe for 5 years in those years of turmoil. You painted a vivid imagination of the place and the scenario of that era in that country. Giving that man a lift was quite risky I felt even though he was just a frustrated man who had no job but still that was brave. :)
ReplyDeleteAkshay, Good to know that you enjoyed reading this blog...I have been planning to write on my Zim experiences for a long time. Have written a few in another blog site years back. Yes, it was risky, but things were not that bad those days. My maid was a black-girl. And tell you, she was just impeccable! Through my husband, I became close to a few black families...such warm, happy-go-lucky people they are!!
DeleteMusic is in their blood-- they say, they use music to defuse tension, and handle emotions.I guess places like Iraq, Zimbabwe etc. were better off under a different system!
Thanks so much for being here again with such a meaningful comment. :))
WOW... Lovely pictures... that could have been scary but in the end it turned out to be touching..
ReplyDeleteYes, Manjulika. All's well that ends well :)) Hats off to your patience... I mean... all of you. :)))
DeleteEnjoy your trip and bring back lovely memories to share with us.
Thanks a bunch. xoxo
Enjoyed the narration, though perhaps was not able to appreciate the situation in its entirety. Your writing and your images work together to explain why you have such fond memories of this beautiful place (and time).
ReplyDeleteShubhorup...Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for that shot in the arm. I guess I have miles to go before I can write a good story... :((((
DeleteYes, we had a great time in Zim. We have traveled extensively due to my husband's transferable job...but, still I would say they were the best years of our lives!! Glad you found time to read this...Thanks a bunch :)
I was so anxious as I read your post and I'm glad that nothing bad happened to you and your family. This is such a lovely post and I felt like I was traveling along. The picture of the Victoria falls with the rainbow is so lovely. As for the politics side, it's sad to learn the things they do to the people who actually voted for them.
ReplyDeleteIt's a great experience you've been through while you were there and I could see how much it means to you.
Welcome to my space, Zunnur...:))I am glad you could relate to this... thank you for your words and for the visit...it means so much :))
DeleteThanks!
loved the clicks mam and the way of your narration is just WOW :D :D
ReplyDeleteYayyyy.... I got a WOW already!!! Doesn't matter if blog-adda decides against it..., Vinisha :)))Thanks a bunch for stepping in with that wonderful encouragement :)) SMILES!
DeleteGood to know about new place & lovely pics.
ReplyDeleteWelcome roopa. Good to have you here.Thanks for your appreciation and hope to see you more on these pages...:))
DeleteThanks!
Looks like your hearts yearning for an adventure was finally fulfilled! That was racy, swift, and beautifully layered in true Panchalibolchi style, loved the travelogue and the pictures complemented the story beautifully in the end :)
ReplyDeleteArti, Your words are most gracious... Coming from you, that's a huge compliment. I am thrilled by your words...:)))
DeleteThanks a lot for the visit.. and the fabulous comment. You made me feel good... :)))))
you could as well be writing a travelouge...the write up is superb and the pics are lovely even though a little hazy...(but that makes it look more dream like!!) loved it!
ReplyDeleteThank you, princess for stepping in with your valuable comment. The purpose of a travelogue is to refresh memories and at the same time create interest to your readers. Though writing travelogues is not my forte, but your comment shows that I have been successful...good to know that, my dear :)) Thanks for lovin it !! Smiles!
DeleteThat was quiet an experience. The images give a nice feel of the place. Very well narrated.
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot, Sabyasachi for the time. Thanks for the encouragement:)
DeleteWow! what a ride that was; it felt like I was also sitting there in the back seat. Thank you for the ride to Victoria Falls and the encounter with Ego.
ReplyDeleteGreat post, honest. I was engrossed, all the way. I could actually do with a few more stories from Zimbabwe.
And congrats on the 'Gold.' You SO deserve it.
DeleteOh, thanks a lot, Divya :)))It packs a powerful scenic punch going past the Zimbabwean forests, rivers and African villages. Glad I got this opportunity to share this memorable incident with you all here. Well, looking at the response, I now intend to write a few more posts on Zim...!
DeleteDelighted with your comment.. and visit of course. :)))xoxo
And thanks so much for your wishes, Divya.... great to have you read this... :)))
DeleteRecommendable article. I learn something more challenging on different blogs everyday. Useful stimulating to see content from other writers and study a little something there.
ReplyDelete__88888___88888888_88888888__8888_8_____
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From creative people
Lucky...100% !!!Wow....that sounds exciting!! I am absolutely gratified :)) Thanks a zillion !!
DeleteBeautiful narration...Thanks for sharing your experiences...enjoyed reading your post..and awesome clicks!!..esp loved the rainbow one!
ReplyDeleteValli...For you to tell me that I manage to do that...!!! Ah...!!! You have NO idea how very very happy I feel... :)))) Thanks a ton!
DeleteGood Post..!! Keep It Up..!!
ReplyDeleteAnd Don't Forget To Have A Look On This Story
'Do You Know Google's Birth Was Spelling Mistake?'
Only On www.Blogedia.In
Thanks For Approving This Comment.
Thanks Yashodhan...You're giving me ideas..!! Not that I am complaining... :)))))))Thanks!
DeleteNow that is a experience and a half and I thought I had so much fun .. this beats it for sure ..
ReplyDeletebeautiful pics mam.. thank you for sharing the memories ..
I love them and spend a lot of time in memories ..
Bikram's
Bikram! Coming from you, that's a compliment. Permit me to feel impressed with myself. :))))) Next coming up... soon:D
DeleteAah, I documented so many memories here...and am loving it:) Thank you.
u have an awesome style of making things unfamiliar to familiar infact u r a good writer...A lovely pleasure going through ur blog...thanks for the follow...best of luck...GOD <3U
ReplyDeleteWelcome Adhi...
DeleteThe pleasure is mine.I followed back in the spirit of reciprocity and of course,to keep tabs on your insightful posts too!!
And you can see, through your page,I got a widget for the falling autumn leaves....must thank you for that....:))
Hope to see you more here!
That was a very interesting narrative--simple & touching.Strange how we meet some people only once,but remember them for long-i am sure he too must have thought of you some times.Hope he got a good job.
ReplyDeleteIndu..Yes, I think about him sometimes even now. I wonder if people are aware of the impact and mark they leave of their actions/ presence.... mostly I think they... do! The magic of a chance meeting is something impactful...So ,maybe he also remembers us & that journey till date!:)
DeleteThanks Indu for your precious comments. xoxo
Lovely pics from the place, a great read.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Indrani. Permit me to feel elated !! I am grateful:))
DeleteHow many lives are there, like his? In different continents, different countries, different languages..hunger striken! An experience am sure that you can't forget, for you could recite it so vividly after all these years. You said it so well and thanks for sharing those beautiful pics.
ReplyDeleteFIF...Indeed, so many countries and human lives have perished because of political unrest in Africa...it's a pity :((
DeleteI am more pleased than I can tell you that this resonated with you...Thank you for that meaningful comment.Thank you!
Sorry about the delay in responding. Have been busy
This looks so beautiful and your trip sounds wonderful--except for the man who rode with you. Very sad story about him but also a bit scary to have a stranger in your car!
ReplyDeleteThanks MM....we were in a precarious situation, and couldn't have said no to this guy. Now, when I think about it...I realize, we weren't really wise:(
DeleteWas busy with a wedding in a family...sorry about the delay in responding.
Thanks for being here:)))
Panchali Very beautiful this post is nice going through your blog happy week. Greetings from Creativity and imagination photos of José Ramón
ReplyDeleteJose Ramon, What a pleasure to see you here...thanks for your appreciative comment :)) Do visit again and I'll be on your page soon.
DeleteSorry about the delay in responding..
So sad, scary and tragic at the same time. My dad was posted in Kano, Nigeria for 3 years when I was between the ages of 6-9!
ReplyDeleteRoshni...Really? We have been to kano. My husband had to go for a meeting and I tagged along....and we stayed in kano, the most populated state! World is really small....isn't it?
DeleteThanks so much for your precious comment. I was waiting for it:))
a magical piece... revisiting the pages of life, of an old diary.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sathish...I am glad you took time to read this post. I am grateful....:))
DeleteSorry about the delay in responding, I have been traveling..
Thanks :)
Nice, memorable snippet. Evocative writing.
ReplyDeleteIts so clearly etched in my memory, Umashankar, Thanks for the encouragement...means a lot to me :)
DeleteSorry about the delay in reverting....
Quite a story!
ReplyDeleteWelcome bellybytes...and thanks for taking time to read this blog :))
Deleteuff, ye blog design...ye zard patton ka girna...
ReplyDeleteUfff... dil ko khush karne ko 'Ashwini' yeh comment accha hai....
DeletePretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and wanted to say that I’ve really enjoyed surfing around your blog posts. After all I will be subscribing to your feed and I hope you write again very soon!
ReplyDeleteScaffolding Applications
Welcome to my space, Traffic Pulse India....good to know that you're willing to subscribe to my feed. Please feel free...and it will be a honor to have you read my write ups:)))
DeleteThanks...!!
Lovely pics! Zimbabwe is such a beautiful country. Sad to hear about the guy though.
ReplyDeleteLoved the leaves falling the side :)
dreamysap, welcome aboard!! I am glad you took time to read this post. I am grateful....:))
DeleteYes, even I loved that apps :)Thank you!!
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From fashion idea
Good day to you too, Lucky! Have been traveling, hence got delayed...lots to catch up,I know :) Shall be in your space ....soon!! Thank you...
DeleteWow.. Panchali… that was a touching story that brought tears to my eyes. It must have been some experience for you. And you have written about it so beautifully and so emotionally. :)
ReplyDeleteYes, Raj...everything is still so fresh in my memory!Thank you for that encouraging comment, coming from a writer of your stature, it means a lot, Raj.
DeleteSo good to see you here after a long gap :D
Thanks a bunch... :))
What a story! Your pictures are amazing. Something we've only seen on TV and the falls are beautiful.
ReplyDeleteYou wrote that story with such depth in your heart. Thanks for sharing it with all of us.
Hugs,
Lily Belle & Muffin
Hugs back Lily Belle & Muffin :)) Glad you enjoyed here....thanks a lot!
DeleteVery nice description..Beautiful pictures..:-)
ReplyDeleteThanks Ranjana...I wish I had words to convey my pleasure at seeing you here. Your comment is most cherished... :))
Delete